Solo Device Climbing. The silent partner solo belay device is the premier choice for exp

The silent partner solo belay device is the premier choice for expert solo climbers. Is the failure mode you mention tipping upside down and the rope pulling through the shunt? If so I think the risk is a bit overblown-if you are tipping upside down whilst shunting you are definitely pushing the envelope! All devices Climbing Solo Cliffs & Mountains How to Climb and Belay Alone a Multipitch Route Mountain is hazardous. . Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. Sep 17, 2012 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. He free soloed the first 5. all have been discontinued, b. What is the most simple and efficient Free solo is the most simple. Larios," and "Mexico. [1] Top Rope Solo Setup for Climbing: I've tried many different Top Rope Solo configurations, but this is by far the best for me right now. ** In this video I show how I setup MY rope solo system as I talk about some of the gear I use. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the Lead Rope Soloing: Systems, Techniques, and Safety Guide A comprehensive resource on lead rope soloing - climbing and belaying yourself on lead without a partner. 6 days ago · According to Honnold, who chatted with Robert on his Climbing Gold podcast, the solo climbs that Robert did on rock during the 80s and 90s came the closest to the limits of human potential at the time. Falling while climbing solo is extremely dangerous. I bought it in the current condition and never used it. Update: This video is far from an instructional work, but please note that the blue rope is oriented incorrectly in the device; the rope should enter and exi Disclaimer: rope solo is dangerous, and none of these devices are designed for it! One thing that isn't discussed is the factor 2 fall which can occur in multipitch climbing. Apr 23, 2023 · The shunt and ascender were never designed for top rope solo or lead rope solo, one of the best bit of kit I've seen on the market so far that works really well for top rope solo is the Taz Love 2 and 3 as they are rated for progress capture, ascent and descent. The rope is tied around a drum via a clove One time, I was climbing with a single ascender, and as I topped out, I realized, to my horror, that I had forgotten to engage the toothed cam; thus, I was free soloing. Aug 25, 2022 · Progress capture devices can be used to save energy and climb harder on big alpine routes. The announcement was We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. So, one end of the lead rope is fixed to this anchor and the climber ties into the other end of the rope. The safest rope solo climbing systems consist of a primary device and a reliable backup. You need a Moved Permanently The document has moved here. I also explain how to build the anchor on a sport climb when there are no available Jun 1, 2021 · We’ll discuss whether rock climbing solo is safe or not, some common solo climbing activities, and how to find climbing partners. Jul 12, 2023 · Because of the lack of actual rope solo devices many climbers including myself have tryed using a Wild Country Revo as a "replacement" for the well known and trusted Silent Partner. 3 days ago · Alex Honnold, the world-renowned free solo climber, is preparing to scale Taipei 101, one of the tallest skyscrapers, in a live broadcast on Netflix scheduled for January 23, 2026. Again, tons of people use toothed devices and have been fine, the device you use is less important than how you use it. I used it for some weeks on my " I've recently found myself without a reliable climbing partner and have been experimenting with some self-belaying solo climbing on my own. El Mudo is gaining international recognition, not only for being the only commercially available device/system but also for its design, which is fundamentally intended for Rope Solo Climbing—whether in Top Rope Solo (TRS) or Lead Rope Solo (LRS). Sep 20, 2018 · At that time, Rock Exotica took over production of the Silent Partner once again. What's a correct technique to do this? I know how to do it with two ropes, rope ascenders and o Feb 27, 2021 · A Microtrax should NEVER EVER be used for protection in a lead rope solo set up. Netflix will broadcast the two-hour climb live. The term is not applied to free solo climbing, as the free solo climber is alone and thus there is no need to distinguish the role of 'leader' from the 'second'. 14 fitness with innovative design to make solo climbing safer. The Lead Rope Solo (LRS) systems presented at that time were newly conceived in isolation and a bit scrapy, but have now evolved through countless pitches and safe falls. It is a single rope device, unlike the shunt. TR soloing is a great way to get in quick sessions, put in more laps, keeping warm on cold days, or when you're following a pitch and then hauling up a backpack. So double-check! Now climb. Well that device is now here - it’s the TAZ Lov2. PART 1 HERE: • Test Of Lead Climbing Solo Devices (P Oct 29, 2025 · Brent Barghahn, ex-Black Diamond, is pairing 5. With the systems described below, I have reached parity with my most difficult belayed redpoint, as well as having multiple big wall solo free climbing experiences. Jeff Achey, Climbing’s Editor at Large, has been doing a lot of solo toproping of late. Features: Certified for using TOP ROPE SOLO climbing techniques Assisted braking device with zero force Jun 15, 2012 · Also, icy ropes and solo belay devices don’t mix; if your ice-climbing partner bails at the last minute, go skiing, or be especially vigilant with your back-up system. Progress Capturing Device These devices are very popular for top rope soloing because they self feed so you can just focus on climbing. To date, several types of self-locking devices have evolved. Y A video I have been meaning to make for some time: I explain how to use a Solist Device for lead rope soloing. Mar 4, 2022 · Lead climbing can be done solo using a rope, harness, and locking device. BACK UP ALL YOUR SYSTEMS: I cannot stress this enough. Petzl has not developed a device for this activity, but certain ascenders may be used for it by Feb 10, 2011 · Rock Exotica Soloist The soloist has probably the best pedigree of any soloing device and has been used on many of the big solo climbs of the past two decades, including all Catherine Destivel's solos (Eiger, Dru and Matterhorn). Next, the climber uses a self-bel In climbing or mountaineering, climbing with a partner or in a team offers the highest level of safety. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Rock Exotica Soloist Self-belay Device Solo Aid Climbing Ascender at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products! Jun 18, 2025 · Learn essential gear, setup, and techniques for top rope solo climbing safely. Jun 10, 2024 · TR solo systems can be pretty complex, and the details matter if you want an efficient and safe system. Its speed activated locking wheel and the resulting beautiful feeding of the device are the main reasons. , true narrative of a solo Serious Accident in French). There are numerous methods of setting up a self belay when lone climbing. the knot would get jammed against the solo device and stop you sliding any further down the rope. Would you think this setup would work? What setups do you use for rope soloing? Best regards and stay safe! Silent Partner, Soloist + (Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Eddy: NOT MADE for lead solo)Only 2 survive THIS test with 10 kg. Any solo belay method should be regarded as a last resort that may allow you to survive the fall, but no system, including the Soloist, can guarantee your safety in a fall. Often, the solution is to go alone, rehearsing the key pitches by solo toproping. When doing Solo TR, user error, not gear failure, is the greatest risk. Rope solo climbing is climbing alone but with a rope to help arrest a fall, or for a self-rescue if required. Oct 15, 2021 · An advanced climbing technique, top rope solo climbing requires you to self-belay and removes the participation of a climbing partner, who would normally belay you or otherwise assist you as you climb. Been mulling around the internet trying to get my hands on a solo device (for leading) but a. Ben is raising funds for BCG FreeBell - A Lead Rope Solo climbing backup device on Kickstarter! Climb freely without worry! Jan 14, 2023 · In reply to John Kelly: I use the S-Tec Duck. g. Tie backup knots and clip into them when toproping or Free solo climbing (or free soloing) is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or free soloist) climbs on technical terrain without ropes or any form of protective equipment — they are allowed to use climbing shoes and climbing chalk (or ice tools and crampons if ice climbing). However, There are drawbacks to this system; I bet you didn't think about how you were going to get down… I didn't and had to work some magic to get down. It can be just as intense and thrilling. e. Don't have slack in your system, that can damage the rope with either device. Its specialized engineering and full stainless-steel construction make it Jun 19, 2025 · This buyers guide to the best mast climbing gear curates all the gear you might need with plenty of alternative options to suit individual tastes and needs. Also avoid Gibbs-type ascenders as they are also cam-loaded. Founder-designed climbing gear solving real problems in trad, multipitch, and rope solo systems. Related: Zodiac—David Allfrey Recounts His Aid Solo Speed Record on El Cap As a self-belay device—a device purpose-designed for rope-solo climbing on lead—the Silent Partner uses a centrifugal clutch to stop a fall. Competition lead climbing is a sport-climbing format that is part of the Olympic sport of competition climbing. Rock climbing is dangerous. I use to climb integral solo without belaying, with two gold rules : being able to climb-down every step, and no objective hazard (no stones falling, solid rock Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Your concern over the pull tab is easy to address, cut the loop into two strands. If you are on something hard, you will become more frustrated with the system than the climb. [2][3] Instead of having a belayer, the climber uses a self-locking device that will hold the rope in the case of a fall, and leads the route in a traditional climbing manner, placing climbing protection as they ascend. May 21, 2024 · Our team field tested all of these products, climbing big walls in Yosemite and Zion, using them for rescue training on glaciers, and as top-rope solo devices at crags. There seems to be a lot of different setups you can use from what I've seen online and I was wondering if anyone else has experience with a system that has worked for them. Similar to regular multipitch rock climbing, the first step involves building an anchor at the bottom of the pitch. It is a shame the Soloist and the Silent Partner are no longer in production. Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that un number of climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions. The only use for a MT (for lead rope solo) is to manage a cache loop so the primary device feeds smoothly. Whether you’re an active first ascensionist or just want to do some laps after work without a partner, solo toproping is a handy Each grabby device needs a carabiner and we recommend an anti-cross loading carabiner since both of your hands will be occupied with climbing. He was originally supposed to solo the building in late 2013, which then got pushed back to 2014, and then ultimately never happened. Oct 18, 2016 · Solo climbing has been practice for as long as any other type of climbing, and a surprising number of famous routes were originally climbed solo, or were quickly repeated by solo climbers. Ive been climbing outside TR solo for about a year and ive tried all kinds of stuff. Dec 20, 2025 · Honnold’s interest in climbing the Taipei 101 can be traced back to 2012, well before his free solo of Freerider on El Cap and the release of “Free Solo”. The small scratches on the surface are from bouncing around in my gear bag. Designed to set new standards in speed, performance, and safety, SULU GO is engineered to support the ambitions of the bold climber. 5 days ago · Honnold recently spoke to Alain Robert, the only other person to climb that 101-storey building in Taiwan. Honnold completes the free solo in 3 hours and 56 minutes. This device, unlike the Soloiad, allows free movement with no self-feeding required, a boon for free climbers. The lead solo devices: The devices mentioned in the lead section can serve top roping purposes. There's a lot of good info spread across MP forums, but figured i'd consolidate and put together an Instructable for anyone else interested in maki… This climbing device is like no other. Jan 13, 2026 · Netflix and climber Alex Honnold have teamed up for an extreme live event! Legendary climber Honnold will climb Taipei 101, one of the tallest buildings. Climbing alone is one way of getting around the lack of a partner. Aug 21, 2020 · Rope solo climbing - this is how it works: Equipment list, information on assembly and tips for self-belaying when top rope climbing. Could you guess what they are ?? PART 2 (50 Progress capture devices that don't use teeth can still compress the core, causing damage that's much harder to notice than a damaged sheath. Versatile Climbing Techniques: Suitable for Lead Rope climbing, Top Rope/Moulinette, Top Rope Solo. In a recent interview, he expressed unwavering confidence and a relaxed demeanor about the ascent, highlighting his focus on performance over the spectacle. Jan 20, 2014 · When Tommy Caldwell or Mayan Smith-Gobat work a free climb high on El Capitan, the crux may be finding a belayer willing to put in days of duty in an isolated and exposed location. Aug 14, 2018 · This is the quickest method and the easiest for free climbing, although a blocker knot is the most dangerous option and would only prevent you sliding out of the system if the mechanism of your solo device failed - i. Apr 7, 2018 · Free solo climbing is extremely dangerous than roped soloing but proper rig can make a safe way for you. Focus when setting things up and continuous awareness on what is around you. At least users have to know that they will probably fail more than some other devices. Covered are some tips when looking at sending a new line when going on a solo. Feb 27, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. But the El Mudo is there for some climbe Rock Exotica Silent Partner self-belay allows you to climb naturally in solitude and without rope drag. Purpose-built tools for serious climbers. The micro traxion is also a perfectly fine device for rope solo. All rope grabs presented in this video can fail if they get caught between the climber's legs closed tight. I would feel better with new gear and c. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. At the anchor, you face another decision: top out or descend. Jun 18, 2020 · Thursday, June 18, 2020 Taz Lov2 for Top Rope Soloing - A Review The holy grail of TRS devices would be a device that allows me to freely climb with no slack build-up; be able to quickly lock-up when needed; and be able to rap whenever I desire without having to switch devices. For this type of climbing, one end of the rope is anchored to an object on the ground, and the other end is coiled in a bag on your harness while you are attached. Please be careful, and realize that my tutorial is only for experie Moved Permanently The document has moved here. 13d grade (8b) routes in 1991, a much higher level of difficulty than Honnold’s own free solo of El Capitan. There are a lot of these style carabiners, but grabby devices have two parallel plates and therefore don't sit well on a D shape carabiners. Lead climbing can also be performed as aid climbing. However, because there is no other person to belay, the anchor is made to take an upward pull. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It is designed in a different way and meets demands for top rope solo climbers. In this video I do a first ascent of an undeveloped crag with a top rope solo setup. Whether you’re an active first ascensionist or just want to do some laps after work without a partner, solo toproping is a handy 5 days ago · Fruit, custom shoes, and a cave—a friend of Alex Honnold's provide an inside perspective on his live free solo on Netflix next week. But in the world of safety, one is none and two is one. We include many break tests so we don't May 2, 2018 · The setup, the process, and tips for toprope soloing (TR solo). Self-locking device Self-locking devices are pieces of rock-climbing equipment intended to arrest the fall of solo climbers who climb without partners. Aug 14, 2018 · The process is simple; as you climb the rope feeds out from your bag (your spare rope), through your self-feeding solo device, and creates 'climbing rope' for you to progress upwards. I created a scale about safety in climbing. However, they are significantly more clunky. FAR better to use "frame loaded" devices for TR solo rope grab: the Traxions, Rescucender, Petzl or Ushba Basic and the like. This is a tutorial on how to Rope Solo Lead Climb using the Rock Exotica Soloist device. " Technical Details The El Mudo is a promising device introduced in 2022. To avoid manually feeding slack through the Gri-Gri, I personally use a Trango Vergo in its place (in a single strand setup, above a MicroTrax), it feeds automatically while climbing when the rope is weighted. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. [1][2][3] The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom. Climbing alone is even more dangerous (e. This device is used for rope solo climbing, for "ground-up climbing", and for "top rope solo climbing". The following parts do not cover specific devices, but rather the qualities of different types of devices, including eccentric, rocker, lever, wedge, as well as Assisted Breaking Devices (ABD), Belay Assist, and non-mechanical. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. May 9, 2007 · Also, icy ropes and solo belay devices don’t mix; if your ice-climbing partner bails at the last minute, go skiing, or be especially vigilant with your back-up system. The SULU GO is a versatile braking and progress capture device with manual-assisted slide locking, ideal for lead and top rope climbing. Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i. The best set up, for a host of reasons, is a microtrax to ascend, jumar (which also has teeth and people never express concerns with using it) to unweight the trax and a grigri to rap. Soloist + (Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Eddy: NOT MADE for lead solo) With a 50 kg weight, some upside-down falls, etc. Apr 1, 2023 · In the past I saw climbers climb alone on multi-pitch routes only by themselves (but not free solo). Jul 14, 2022 · The following is part one of another chunk on my On the Line book, covering the tricky topic of top rope soloing (TRS). This setup allows me to go climbing outdoors by myself in areas that have easy access to top rope Brent Barghahn from Avant Climbing shows us his favorite Top Rope Solo systems and why he chose the devices he did. The Rescucender is a perfectly fine device for rope solo. Same principle as the shunt, but steel body so stronger and heavier. One necessary piece of gear in any setup is some type of neck or chest strap to keep the upper device in the correct position while climbing – otherwise the device doesn’t feed smoothly. Your first rule while climbing must be: Don’t Fall. He later does an interview with a journalist in which he contemplates his future, and the future of free solo climbing. This device would then be the main device to catch a fall while I could still easily descend with the cinch or reconfigure the setup to jumar up if I can't climb the section. It has been many years since a good self belay device was marketed in the USA, and solo climbers have been resorting to improvising techniques that use devices never intended for that purpose. Discover key steps today! The Sulu Go is a new play device from Italy. This guide covers essential techniques, systems for different climbing scenarios, equipment comparisons, and crucial safety considerations. Ever wanted to climb solo but still stay safe? In this video, I take you through my full Top Rope Solo climbing setup, gear selection and self-belay system. Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. Yes they are pricey but breaking both ankles can cost a bit . Pend," a book-with-an-"I" icon, " UIAA 129 V9," "M.

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